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slab climbing
Slab climbing is a type of rock climbing where the rock face is at an angle of less steep than vertical.〔Kresner, Jonathon. "( Rock Climbing Glossary, Climbing Dictionary )" Climbfind. Retrieved 2010-12-7.〕 It is characterized by balance- and friction-dependent moves on very small holds.〔"( Climbing Glossary )" Mountainzone. Retrieved 2010-12-7.〕 It is often not leadable, or climbable from the ground up, unless it has pre-drilled bolts to protect the climb, making most slab climbs either top rope climbing or sport climbing. Special techniques such as smearing are necessary to climb slab. It is a type of face climbing and is distinctly different from crack climbing. Slab climbing is a relatively new area of climbing, having become more popular in the last 30 years and some of the highest graded routes are currently being realized.
== History ==
The first routes put up on new cliffs almost always follow cracks, due to the ease of placing protection, or pieces of metal which arrest a fall, while on lead. Slab climbs rarely have cracks or other protectable features. Therefore, slab climbs are usually discovered well after the cracks are all climbed, since easier routes to the summit exist. Slab climbs rarely have cracks or face holds, making them dangerous to lead climb using traditional protection, or removable gear that fits into rock features, since the scarcity of protectable features results in long sections where the climber is exposed to long falls, over on some routes. As a result, it was not until the introduction of bolting routes that hard slab lines could be climbed. In 1927, Laurent Grivel designed the first rock drill and expansion bolt, which paved the way for protecting climbs such as slab.〔Middendorf, John. "(The Mechanical Advantage )" Retrieved 2010-12-7.〕 The next advancement for slab climbing did not come until 1980 when Boreal marketed the first "sticky rubber" shoe, allowing friction climbing to be more feasible. Before this, most climbing was done in boots or thick soled shoes, which prevents the climber from making the balance dependent moves required on slab walls.
Slab climbing saw a dramatic increase in the number of new routes with the introduction of lightweight, electric drills in the 1980s, but slowed down as criticism of permanent bolting grew, and electric drills became illegal in many National Parks and Wilderness Areas. A new generation of climbers has begun to revive slab climbing, putting up some of the hardest routes in the world.
抄文引用元・出典: フリー百科事典『 ウィキペディア（Wikipedia）』
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